Check out my reviews for an in-depth look at each belay device.Ĭhoosing the right belay device can be tricky, especially if you’re new to climbing and not sure what you need. Specifically, how well each belay device performs at feeding out rope and taking up slack, how easy they are to use for rappelling, and how light and durable they are. While every device I’ve tried will hold a fall, not all of them are equally easy to use or stand up equally well to the demands of mountain travel.įor this guide, I considered the factors that matter most to climbers and mountaineers. I’ve spent years rock climbing and mountaineering, and I’ve tried more than a few belay devices along the way. In this guide, I’ll show you the 8 best belay devices for 2023 and explain everything you need to know about choosing the right belay device for your roped adventures. So, it’s critical to get a belay device you can count on. You trust your belay device with your life and your partner’s life when climbing and rappelling. On multi-pitch routes, the minimal effort required to pull rope through is a major plus.Ī good belay device is just as important as a reliable rope when you’re rock climbing, mountaineering, or traveling across glaciers. There’s not a ton of unnecessary friction when belaying a follower from above, but the device grabs without slippage when your second takes a fall. Since it only weighs 2.8 ounces, I typically carry this ATC on my harness even along with a burlier assisted braking device when I’m cragging.Īnother thing I like about the ATC Guide is that it operates smoothly in auto-block mode. Black Diamond advertises it as having “high” and “low” friction modes depending on which way you load the rope, but I can’t imagine ever wanting to use the low friction mode. It’s versatile enough to use in almost any situation, whether you’re at the crag, hanging on the side of a mountain, or belaying across a crevasse.Īs a tube-style belay device, don’t expect a huge amount of braking power from the ATC Guide. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tried and true belay device that I take with me on virtually every climbing trip.
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